Original Ate OEM Quality Front Brake Pads 1993-95 Mercedes W124 300 320 400 420
Original Ate OEM Quality Front Brake Pads 1993-95 Mercedes W124 300 320 400 420
Original Ate OEM Quality Front Brake Pads 1993-95 Mercedes W124 300 320 400 420
Original Ate OEM Quality Front Brake Pads 1993-95 Mercedes W124 300 320 400 420
Original Ate OEM Quality Front Brake Pads 1993-95 Mercedes W124 300 320 400 420
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  • Load image into Gallery viewer, Original Ate OEM Quality Front Brake Pads 1993-95 Mercedes W124 300 320 400 420
  • Load image into Gallery viewer, Original Ate OEM Quality Front Brake Pads 1993-95 Mercedes W124 300 320 400 420

Original Ate OEM Quality Front Brake Pads 1993-95 Mercedes W124 300 320 400 420

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Original Ate OEM compound front brake pad set for 1993 - 1995 Mercedes W124 models.

  • Ate has been an OEM or original supplier to Mercedes for almost 100 years!

  • This front brake pad set has the original semi-metallic brake compound to provide the braking your Mercedes came with.

  • These pads also have a textured backing to help prevent brake noise and squealing, and used in conjunction with the genuine Mercedes-Benz anti-squeal paste works well.

  • This OEM quality Ate pad set will fit various models off the W124 Sedan, Coupe, Convertible and Wagon so please see the application fitment table to confirm.

  • These pads are also featured in an EPS Premium complete front brake kit, along with German made Ate rotors and all necessary installation parts.

  • The following items are also recommended to ensure a proper installation:

See If This Fits My Car

Year

Make Model Trim Engine Note
1993 Mercedes-Benz 300CE Base Convertible 2-Door 3.2L 3199CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated from chassis # B 862122
1993 Mercedes-Benz 300CE Base Coupe 2-Door 3.2L 3199CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated from chassis # B 862122
1993 Mercedes-Benz 300E Base Sedan 4-Door 3.2L 3199CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated from chassis # B 864308
1993 Mercedes-Benz 300TE Base Wagon 4-Door 3.2L 3199CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated from chassis # F 242722
1993 Mercedes-Benz 400E Base Sedan 4-Door 4.2L 4196CC V8 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated  
1994 Mercedes-Benz E320 Base Sedan 4-Door 3.2L 3199CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated  
1994 Mercedes-Benz E320 Base Coupe 2-Door 3.2L 3199CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated  
1994 Mercedes-Benz E320 Base Convertible 2-Door 3.2L 3199CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated  
1994 Mercedes-Benz E320 Base Wagon 4-Door 3.2L 3199CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated  
1994 Mercedes-Benz E420 Base Sedan 4-Door 4.2L 4196CC V8 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated  
1995 Mercedes-Benz E320 Base Wagon 4-Door 3.2L 3199CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated  
1995 Mercedes-Benz E320 Base Coupe 2-Door 3.2L 3199CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated  
1995 Mercedes-Benz E320 Base Convertible 2-Door 3.2L 3199CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated  
1995 Mercedes-Benz E320 Base Sedan 4-Door 3.2L 3199CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated  
1995 Mercedes-Benz E420 Base Sedan 4-Door 4.2L 4196CC V8 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated  
1996 Mercedes-Benz E320 Base Sedan 4-Door 3.2L 3199CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated  

 

Service/ Technical Info

Breaking in Your Brake Discs and Removing the Brake Disc Coating

To remove the coating of the original ATE brake disc after assembly, recommended at least five braking operations from a speed of approx. 50 km / h up to Standstill, to be carried out with the usual delay in road traffic.

For reasons of comfort and to ensure optimal safety in traffic please carry out this procedure before your customer takes over the vehicle.

The coated area of ​​the brake disc remains protected against corrosion even after installation. This not only ensures safety, but also an excellent look. During the “running in” of the brake disc, grinding noises can occur as the coating material is removed from the friction surfaces.

After the “running-in” cycle, the friction surfaces are bare metal and without residues of coating material. Coating material that is pushed up in front of the pads is normal and has no influence on the braking behavior.

No additional treatment, such as cleaning, is necessary before installation. Simply unpack and install!

Getting the best from your new brakes

Bedding allows your brakes to reach their full potential.

Until they are bedded, brakes simply do not work as well as they can.  If you have installed a big brake kit, changed pads and rotors, or even purchased a new car, you should set aside time to bed the brakes per the instructions below.  Proper bedding improves pedal feel, reduces or eliminates brake squeal, prevents (and often cures) brake judder, reduces brake dust, and extends the life of pads and rotors.  For more details on the theory of bedding, please refer to the included article.

Caution: Immediately after installing new pads, rotors or a big brake kit, the first few applications of the brakes will result in very little braking power.  Gently use the brakes a few times at low speed to build up some grip before blasting down the road at high speed.  Otherwise, you may be in for a nasty surprise the first time you hit the brakes at 60 mph.

If you just installed rotors with zinc plating or if the rotors have an anti-corrosion phosphate coating, you should postpone bedding until normal driving has allowed your pads to polish the rotors clean and removed all traces of the plating or coating.  If your new brake rotors have an oily anti-corrosion coating, clean this off thoroughly with brake cleaning spray and/or hot soapy water before installation.

Read and understand these instructions completely before starting.  If you have questions, give us a call or email.  Do not substitute higher speeds for the 60mph called for.  The heat in brakes goes up exponentially as you increase the speed from which you brake.  Repeated stops from 80 or 90mph with street pads will overheat the brakes and you may end up having to replace pads and rotors.

When following these instructions, avoid other vehicles.  Bedding is best done when traffic is light, as other drivers will have no idea what you are up to and may respond in a variety of ways ranging from fear to curiosity to aggression.  A police officer will probably not sympathize when you try to explain why you were driving erratically!  We do not endorse speeding on public roads and take no responsibility for injuries or tickets you may receive while following these instructions.  Use common sense!

  1. From 60mph, gently apply the brakes a couple times to bring them up to operating temperature.  This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.
  2. Make eight to ten near-stopsfrom 60mph to about 20 mph. Do it HARD by pressing the brakes firmly, but do not lock the wheels or engage ABS.  At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph, then apply the brakes again.  DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP!  If you stop completely, with your foot on the brake pedal, pad material will be imprinted onto the hot rotors, which could lead to vibration and uneven braking.
  3. The brakes may begin to fade after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled.  A strong smell from the brakes, and even some smoke, is normal.
  4. After the last near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a few minutes, using the brakes as little as possible to allow them to cool down.  Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still hot.
  5. If full race pads, such as Hawk DTC-70 or Performance Friction PFC11 are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 20 mph.

After the break-in cycle, there should be a slight blue tint and a light gray film on each rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for.  The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of pad material deposited across the rotors.  This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.

After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in.  A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well.  This is especially true if you have installed new pads on old rotors, since the pads need some usage to conform to the rotor wear pattern.  If you've just installed a big brake kit, pedal travel may not feel as firm as you expected.  After the second bedding cycle, the pedal will become noticeably firmer.  If necessary, bleed the brakes to improve pedal firmness.

Why Choose ATE Brakes?

Ate is an OEM Original Equipment Manufacturer and supplier to Europe's finest automobiles for over 100 years, manufacturing products in various countries but always supervised by Ate with the highest quality materials.

  • "We use a highly-durable alloy for the coating and apply it very carefully. The result is first class in every aspect!"

  • "Everything about the coating is best OEM quality. It serves as reliable corrosion protection and is resistant to high temperatures."

  • "That’s why it will look good for a long, long time – and also continue to provide optimal safety."

  • "When it comes to our coated brake discs – not only the function has to be perfect, but also the appearance."